While Larkmead is best known for its near-cult-status Napa cabernets, the operation also produces some other varietals, including white, which comprise 10% of Larkmead’s production. We were fortunate to receive a sampling of expressions from across the range of Larkmead’s catalog, offering a little bit of something for everyone. Thoughts on this quartet of wines follow.

2023 Larkmead Lillie Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley – Designed to be “a Sauvignon Blanc that acts as a Chardonnay,” Lillie is 100% aged in French oak and indeed defies easy description, pouring from the bottle as oddly nutty and even resinous — unlike any Sauvignon Blanc I’ve ever encountered. Initially heavy on almonds, the wine migrates toward a coconut character as it builds in glass, here evoking Chardonnay to its fullest. Surprisingly creamy and waxy as it develops on the palate, I really grew to love this wine after initially being a bit baffled by its structure, particularly its refreshing and vaguely sea-breezy finish, reminiscent of Hawaiian florals wafting in the wind. If nothing else, it’s a daring experiment. A- / $75

2022 Larkmead Firebelle Napa Valley – This is a blend that changes yearly; for 2022 it’s 77% merlot and 23% cabernet sauvignon. Tasting this essentially blind, I swore it was heavy on cab franc (and it normally has been in previous vintages), but no, it’s merlot that’s doing the heavy lifting on what is a boldly tannic and, at first, a bit tough wine. Decanting wouldn’t be a bad idea, but airtime in glass works too, helping coax out an enchanting note of cocoa powder and cab-driven cassis to downplay a tougher graphite quality up top, slightly tarry. Ultimately it’s driving to a less complex finish today than I would have hoped for (and expected), but the chocolatey core, laced with purple fruit, has plenty to recommend as is. Recommend you hold this for at least 5 years for best results. B+ / $100

2022 Larkmead Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley – 82% cabernet sauvignon, 18% cabernet franc. Made from estate-grown fruit, this is quite a chewy wine, with lots of classic cab character — loads of currants, followed by dried cherry notes and a licorice finish. There’s ample vanilla throughout, showcasing the wine’s extensive barrel time, alongside a vague hint of mint and more savory green herbs. The cabernet franc doesn’t make much of a showing amidst a body that is ultimately rather doughy and unctuous, coating the palate with its lengthy, fruit-forward finish. It’s iconically big, but a bit too flabby, and just not as immersive as I was hoping to find. B+ / $125

2021 Larkmead Solari Napa Valley – 100% cabernet sauvignon that doesn’t mention cabernet on the front label. This is nothing a massive wine, and drinking it today is probably folly, unless you have a great decanter, a lot of patience, and a long runway of time ahead of you. Intense notes of cassis tempered with black tea, anise, and graphite dominate, with very dark chocolate notes laying in wait underneath. There’s no subtlety on this wine today — it needs five-plus years of cellar time to really reveal its truth — but even today its tannin structure is superb, tightly wound but elegant, its finish layered with more of that gentle licorice, laced with vanilla and cocoa nibs. Hang on to this one. A / $200

larkmead.com

The post Review: Wines of Larkmead, Early 2025 Releases appeared first on Drinkhacker: The Insider's Guide to Good Drinking.