La Maison & Velier is best known (and rightfully so) for its world-class rum program, but it also releases limited edition bottlings of other spirits — including mezcal.

The Palenqueros line is a series of “single palenque” expressions made in limited quantities in Oaxaca, each showcasing the name and photograph of the producer on the label. Take what Del Maguey is doing and double-down on it, and you’ve got Palenqueros, with expressions that can be limited to only a few hundred bottles at a time. Per LM&V: “Each product is made by producers who use only wild, pesticide-free cultivated agaves (or maguey), pressed manually.”

We received very small samples of six recent Palenqueros releases — each one made with a different type of agave. Our (unfortunately limited) thoughts follow.

LM&V Palenqueros Valente Garcia Madrecuishe Review

Peppery and racy on the nose, both cracked black pepper and jalapeno notes in evidence. Rich, green herbal/agave notes build with time in glass creating an intensely savory and seductive aromatic experience. The palate is similarly pastoral, with a chewy body and notes of mixed greenery, including more jalapeno, green onion, ramps, and chard. A spray of lemon oil across the top keeps everything bright and fresh, the finish cleansing while only lightly laced with smoke. A top pick here. 97.8 proof. A / $90

LM&V Palenqueros Onofre Ortiz Mexicano Review

Aggressive on the nose, perhaps the boldest mezcal in this lineup, showcasing layers of leather, old books, sandalwood, and candle smoke. If any mezcal could work as a perfume, this is it. Time in glass evokes a bit of camphor, but in a slightly floral, not off-putting way. The palate pushes hard into heavier floral, perfumed qualities, in a way that is almost discordant compared to the nose. Finishing notes of crushed red pepper are tempered by notes of coconut husk and almond, adding a gentle and welcome sweetness. Quite a journey. 95.8 proof. A- / $100

LM&V Palenqueros Baltazar Cruz Tepextate Review

Unctuous and sweet, with a surprising rush of red berries to kick things off, followed by rosemary and smudged sage to give the mezcal its trademark smokiness — here quite herbal, and very understated. Chewy on the palate with ample green herbs and lots of mint, then wet tobacco leaf. Almonds give way to a sharp, mineral-laden finish, tinged with pepper. 97 proof. A- / $120

LM&V Palenqueros Alberto Ortiz Tobala Review

Bright and engaging, with a rich herbal quality on the nose, melding notes of rosemary with green pepper and some menthol. Reminiscent of the Baltazar Cruz Tepextate, but much less sweet. The palate instead is quite balanced, a mix of bright citrus and gentle beefiness — a rather classic tobala presentation, with a sharper, peppery finish. Again, smoke is restrained throughout, with a finish that is more sea spray that campfire. 100.2 proof. A- / $90

LM&V Palenqueros Alberto Ortiz Espadin Review

Tight, restrained nose, not giving anything up but some lemon, crushed charcoal, and a wave of sandalwood. Much more aggressive on the palate, showcasing fruitwood smoke that evokes notes of cooked apples over smoldering mesquite, then a concluding layer of citrus, infused with saline. Quite clean and refreshing, though it comes across as a little thin. 98 proof. B+ / $85

LM&V Palenqueros Baltazar Cruz Sierra Negra Review

Sickly sweet nose, exuding overripe fruit. The sharpest smoke character in this lineup, heavy and laden with both black pepper and crushed red pepper flakes. Extremely fruity on the palate; though not quite saccharine it approaches bubblegum flavors at time. An herbal edge adds a much-need savoriness but the pedal is still firmly down on the overripe fruit as the finish arrives. Just too over the top for me. 102 proof. B / $90

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